Grand Willys Project

[mercury mitch]

Hi Gojeep here is a little tool I made for countersinking screw holes, the pin locates the lower piece in its right place each time. cheers Mitch

[Gojeep]

Things like that is why one day I hope to have a lathe.

[zuffen]

Get one.

I was working on my son's Evo yesterday and needed to line up a bolt hole two parts that I couldn't see.

Grabbed a bolt the right size, chucked it in the old lathe and 10 minutes later I had the tool I needed and another 10 minutes and the parts were bolted together.

This was after struggling with it for an hour before using the lathe.

There are so many situations where it makes work easy and the result better.

[Gojeep]

A lathe is on the top of my wish list now.

[enjenjo]

I have a nice 6 by 24 Craftsman/Atlas lathe for sale. But obviously it quite some distance away.

[GigglingMonkey]

I have a nice 6 by 24 Craftsman/Atlas lathe for sale. But obviously it quite some distance away.

Runs on the wrong kind of electricity as well, will prolly put metal on instead of taking it off

mick in glen innes

[Gojeep]

This is the harness from the donor I need to add. There is no way the rubber part will squeeze down to the 5mm gap I have between the door and the A pillar, nor do I want such big holes in either side.


My idea is to have a hole only big enough for the round corrugated part to slide in and out of on the A pillar side. By removing the plastic housing the boot ends fitted on, the plugs pass through sideways and the wide part of the boot fits through once rolled up.


I have drilled a hole 14mm-9/16" smaller than the round part of the boot in the A pillar. I made this tool to flare the hole.


The slot fits over the edge of the hole like this.


Then you pull up a little bit at a time and work your way around the hole. The T handle works well making sure the slot is always bottomed out while pulling on it. I used the small mallet to help it around as the flare got over about 45*. Could also hit against the underside of handle to pull the hole level if it sank in at all.


Once nearly there I tapped through the hammer which was the size I wanted in the end. Helped round the hole a bit more too.


It left a 7mm-1/4" flare which will stop the corrugated part of the boot getting caught as it goes in and out while using the door.


Once the flare was finished I was able to pass a holesaw right through and drill out the other side of the A pillar to get the wires and plugs through. So the hole at the start was 29mm-1.1/8". The 10mm-3/8" slot opened up the hole to 43mm-1.11/16", 14mm bigger. I had done a test hole first to see what I would end up with. But the slot needs to be half the depth you want the diametre to increase by, plus about 2.5 times the material thickness.


With the plugs all the way through the A pillar and the wide part of the boot inside it, you can push and pull the boot in and out even on the angles it will see with the door opening and closing without it catching.


Now the door side I don't want to move so I want the final hole size to be the small diameter of the corrugated grooves. I am still going to make a small flare so the edge of the hole doesn't cut through the boot over time. Notice the angled cut along with the other one on top.


The angled cut is so I can start the flare and clear the hinge and the edge of the door. I switch to the other slot once about halfway done flaring.


So this hole was 25mm-1" to start with it ended up at 33mm-1.5/16", 8mm-5/16" bigger. This was with a 5mm-3/16" slot and with a 4mm-5/32" deep flare.


With the big oval part of the boot inside the door and the depth of the flare inside the narrowest part of the boot grooves, it sits there firmly.


A this is how it looks when all in place. Can also just make out one of the plugs in the cavity inside the kick panel area once it has passed right through the A pillar. To remove the door I simply unplug from there and pull the boot through followed by the plugs and only takes a minute or so.

[jailbar joe]

funny how big problems have simple solutions....when you finally think of them ....well done

[Sly Fox]

More factory parts put to good use at no extra cost.

Great problem solving Marcus, patience and planning to get the best solution before you dive in is certainly worth it in the end when you get results like that,

Regards,
Peter

[Chrisso]

Sweet solution Marcus looks cool as well

[enjenjo]

I have a nice 6 by 24 Craftsman/Atlas lathe for sale. But obviously it quite some distance away.

Runs on the wrong kind of electricity as well, will prolly put metal on instead of taking it off

mick in glen innes

No motor on it at the present. My intention was to power it with a DC motor so I could vary the speed without messing with the belt. I have the motor and voltage control from a treadmill I was going to use. I bought another lathe that was ready to run, so this one became surplus.

[zuffen]

How will you stop the sleeve wearing the paint off the A pillar?

Will you use a fixed sleeve/grommet/thingy around the hole to protect the paint?

[Gojeep]

Thanks for all the comments guys.

How will you stop the sleeve wearing the paint off the A pillar?

Will you use a fixed sleeve/grommet/thingy around the hole to protect the paint?

My thought if needed was to cut some stainless tube and flare one end and urethane it in place. Keeping an eye out in case I find something I can already use like the top of a small stainless cup etc.

[robtus]

again, restoration stuff has some nice stainless braided tube, in brass up to 7/8 inch and stainless up to 1.1/4 inch OD. catalogue page 11

[Gojeep]

Only a little update.


Doing what I can on the windscreen trim. The windscreen is 220mm-9" wider than stock so each side has to extend half of that. No height change as the whole windscreen frame was lowered instead by sectioning the cowl 50mm-2".


The defrost louver lengthening finished. This is all you will see from the inside of the cab.


Enough airflow to work the defrost from the longer stock louver. The mounting holes were welded up and moved and repunched to be even where needed.


Now the door modifications are completed, I am stripping the doors right down and removing the hinges so I can spray the inside with a zinc coating. I drill a couple of small holes through the inner door skin and into the hinge so I can put them right back in the same spot. Each hinge was drilled differently so I know from where they came. When putting the hinge back, just line up the holes and screw it down.