english wheel

[Meeksie]

[quote="YNOTU2"]Dunno how many of you guys have seen my wheel.
I built it a few years ago with the top of the range (at the time) Hoosier stuff.
Cost a fortune to buy & ship, but well worth it (hardened & polished) [quote]

So with yours how do you change the contact surface of the bottom wheel, I can't see any adjustment there? Or doesn't that matter.
Also if you do not have the quick release do you have any difficulties finding the same tension once again?
Any pros and cons would be great information for when I design mine.

[YNOTU2]

Dunno how many of you guys have seen my wheel.
I built it a few years ago with the top of the range (at the time) Hoosier stuff.
Cost a fortune to buy & ship, but well worth it (hardened & polished)

So with yours how do you change the contact surface of the bottom wheel, I can't see any adjustment there? Or doesn't that matter.
Also if you do not have the quick release do you have any difficulties finding the same tension once again?
Any pros and cons would be great information for when I design mine.

Howdy,
Mine has small grub srews in the anvil holder to adjust any out of true the frame may have (but I do not need them )
I have tilted an anvil to one side to form a "break", it was as easy as putting a piece of card under the axle on one side (business cards are usuful for something )

The quick release is up the top wheel (note the handle on the side! It has a spring loaded pin to hold it in place) It is an over centre type which is just too easy to use.
Though I'd used few "Kick Wheel" type machines, I found they lacked clearence more so than the need to adjust the pressure on the fly (this is a personal choice)
When wheeling any largeish panel, there is always 2 of us, so if a pressure change is required, the other person just supports the sheet while I cange it. To easy.
Adjustiong pressure is one way of speeding or slowing up your stretch, but plenty of the time it is just a couple of extra passes, after all, the more control you have over the amount of metal that is moved, the neater the job will be & the less "washing out" or "planishing" you'll have to do. (each job is different, so is tackled on it's own merit)

Make your frame as strong as you can. Much of the strength will depend on your final design/materials used.
You will note mine has different sized holes in it (typical Rodder ) they are fully weled inside & out, adding a HUGE amount of strength.
Mine is actually hollow (though I did want it to look like a solid cast one) 10mm plate on the outside, wrapped with 5mm.
It tapers from 6" at the back to 3" at the anvil/adjuster. This tapering also adds much strength.
The secret is your welding process, weld heaps in the one spot & your frame will warp, so take care!

I also made my own adjuster & made sure I had sideways adjustment build in (nylon slides, steel plates adjusted with brub screws on the outside)

gee.............. Look who I found



You may even recognise this bloke

[56Effie]

Dunno how many of you guys have seen my wheel.
I built it a few years ago with the top of the range (at the time) Hoosier stuff.
Cost a fortune to buy & ship, but well worth it (hardened & polished)

Those who use to go to Metal meet in Melbourne have probably even used it.

That one looks flasher than a rat with a gold tooth, very nice.

[Meeksie]

Need some help as I'm drawing up a design and have seen others english wheels with quick releases so the wheel doesn't need to be would down so far. Is this design as simple as winding down the lower anvil or is there something else involved that I'm missing that helps to remove the lower anvils quickly? Anyone used one of this design that has pros and cons to offer.
Thanks in advance.

[woody28A]

Need some help as I'm drawing up a design and have seen others english wheels with quick releases so the wheel doesn't need to be would down so far. Is this design as simple as winding down the lower anvil or is there something else involved that I'm missing that helps to remove the lower anvils quickly? Anyone used one of this design that has pros and cons to offer.
Thanks in advance.

Meeksie, the quick release mechanism ( as used on John Heine and other machines was designed for machines in constant use.
The other advantage is you don't have to re-adjust the tension or pressure each time you remove a panel, if it has a lip edge etc.
Unless you use the machine each and every day what you have should be fine. Hand wheel to "elevate and tension" and adjusting screws to 'level". You could always use a series of marks to use as a pressure guide, but you would have to allow for varing gauges of material.

[michael037]

See if you can dig up a copy of the issue of American Rodder magazine that has the plans for a small english wheel in it. Included in the details are how to fabricate a small quick release assembly for the english wheel.
Michael

[ram-rod]

have a look around http://www.metalmeet.com and also http://www.allmetalshaping.com and metalshapping .org these three sites are overflowing with info

[mule]

try harbor freight in the states.
http://www.harborfreight.com/english-wh ... 95366.html

[ram-rod]

many people have spent good money on harbour freight Ewheels only to be disapointed
get some background from metalmeet prior to spending your hard earned money on land fill

a frame that flexes wont move metal around quickly

[mule]

many people have spent good money on harbour freight Ewheels only to be disapointed
get some background from metalmeet prior to spending your hard earned money on land fill

a frame that flexes wont move metal around quickly

i wouldnt use any rhs frame, but their wheels are fine.

[michael037]

Mule
What would you use for a frame instead? Keep in mind that these are english wheels that people are going to try and put together in their sheds at home. I was thinking of using 200x100x8mm RHS for my frame, but am open to practical suggestions.
Michael

[Pro]

THAT's not an english wheel - THIS...is an english wheel!!!!

[mule]

mine is made from 10mm flat that has been made into a box profile however it isn't square in shape it is curved like the one pro has. it is rigid as hell. it is an expensive way material wise however if it flexes you can get consistent curves. the other thing to be conscious of when building one is that the top and bottom anvils have to be exactly aligned. if they aren't it will cause 2 things uneven pressure and it will cause the frame to twist or distort.

[marshal_au]

I know this is an older thread, but it still seems relevant. Not everyone has enough room for a good sized, super heavy duty english wheel. I would like to know what people think of these smaller ones http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-MINI-ENG ... 2eb543eabf I know they are small and probably a bit wonky, but would they make a good starting point? Maybe increase the throat size and beef up the frame a bit. Obviously not for someone that uses them everyday.

[cords]

not bad boat anchor you dont have to build a monster had a mate build a bench mount it had an 22" throught out of 5"x3"x1/4 rhs or for the metric blokes 125x75x6 hoosier does 1" and 2" anvils as well i have a set of the 1" great for little tight stuff