32 ford closed cab pickup on hilux chassis build diary

[conceptz]

Hey i'm just starting my first rod ,it's goning to take some time to build i think as i don't have a lot of experiance .i have a couple of questions if anybody can help .

THE CHASSIS
The chassis i will be useing is a 81 hilux with a v6 commodoore motor and 5 speed box ,and a narrowed 9 inch diff wich has already been engineered and registed so i will try not to change this to aviod re engineering if i can ,

{1} The problem i have firstly is that the 32 grille will not sit far enough back to look right .
Possible solutions
{1}I could move the motor and box back {would this require re engineering?
{2} I could use a different grille maybe {35 ford sedan}{35 commercial grille and gaurds }{some kind of tractor maybe }
{2} Problem 2 is the steering box it sits on top of the chassis rails and the torsion bar front end is not going to be easy to lower . any one got a good solution ?
THE BODY
The body i am useing is a fiberglass 32 ford closed cab pickup as i have no fiberglass experience this will be a challange as well i will need to steel it out a couple of questions on this topic too
{ The body is not as straight as i would like is there a way to straighten some of the dips and waves out so i donot have to use so much bog ?}
I have heard that fiberglass distorts when left in the heat , could i heat the glass some way and then clamp the panel in position with blocks of wood till it cooled ?then build up the panel with more glass so that it will hold it shape better {the glass is a little thin in some places i think } Thank s for havin a look any surgestions greatfully accepted

[devojet]

The torsion bar front end should be easy to lower. There should be a bolt at the rear of the torsion bar that can be loosened to lower it.

Cheers

Daniel

[NOI53Y]

Well you certainly fixed the pics hahaha.

Much better

[spark]

You will have to steel out the body- make a cage of 20mm or 25mm square tube.
For the rear panel you will need to run a square tube from the door pillar around
the corner, under the window to the other pillar. Repeat this on top of the
window – (pillar to pillar), run tube down the sides of the window to join the two together.

Use 25 x 50mm to make a pillar (vertical) you should be able to make the 2 pillars
+ 2 rear panel supports, weld them together and fit them so they will support the floppy fibreglass body
and hold it in shape. Some sicoflex behind the square tubing will stop it flopping around or oil caning.

I strongly advise you to have a look at a car that is steeled out to get an idea on how to brace the body.
Maybe someone on this forum is at a stage to give you a look at a build, or would know
someone in the area for you to have a look.

This is a pic of some of the bracing to support the steering column and brake pedal set up,
behind the dash of my 30 pickup just to give you an idea.

..
.

[scooterscum]

welcome conceptz - looks like an interesting project.
Where did you get thew 32 closed cab body from? I didn't know anyone was producing these.
Thanks and regards
Scoots

[conceptz]

HI thanks for the reply this imformation will help . I bought it of a guy in sydney he didn't say who built it , i probably wouldn't advertise if i was them either it is a bit rough but a bit of work and it should be ok

[boxhead]

In regards to the fibreglass.
I am building a Cobra replica and the r/h sill on my car was very wavy.
I used a heat gun and heated the fibreglass (dont get it so hot that it starts to discolor), then I used a couple of G clamps and timber to clamp it in place, this worked well for me.
The glass in my car is about 4 - 5 mm thick.

['26bits]

G'day conceptz.
Smaller, clearer pics would help a lot.
If I understand you correctly on the grille problem, it is sitting too far forward of the axle centreline. Moving the engie back would be the best opption and you may have to bite the bullet and do this. Moving the body forward is another opption which would more than likely create more problems such as decreased leg room in an already small interior and the grill would still be way in font of the axle centre line.
Maybe talk to an engineer if you haven't already done so, and see what he can tell you about moving the engine back.
Good luck.

Ian.

[conceptz]

boxhead the glass on my cab is about the same thickness so i will probably try this thank you
26bits when i have learned how to size my pics better it will make things easier yes, i will take better pics soon i have to clean the garage out so i can set up for this build better then i can take some more detailed pics and yes i think i will have to speak to an engineer about moving the motor back it will make a much better looking rod in the end, thank you

[racer27]

hi here are some photos on a section of a steel out.

[Popey]

I'd be checking out the rego rules, and consulating an engineer before going any further.

Having said that:

{1} The problem i have firstly is that the 32 grille will not sit far enough back to look right .
Possible solutions

{1}I could move the motor and box back {would this require re engineering?
The motor definitely needs to go way back. Just get the front wheels in the right place. Get the raadiator set correctly and work back from there.

{2} I could use a different grille maybe {35 ford sedan}{35 commercial grille and gaurds }{some kind of tractor maybe }

The proportions still need to work; so the motor has to go back

{2} Problem 2 is the steering box it sits on top of the chassis rails and the torsion bar front end is not going to be easy to lower . Any one got a good solution ?

Nope; can't help here, unless you re-engineer it. But if you are going to all that trouble, you may be better off using a repro Ford frame.

[barnsey]

this thred had its last post in jan 08 3 and a half years ago
and the original person who started the thred hasn't posted on this forum since may 2010 twelve months ago, why drag up old threds that have stalled for so long