6v53 GM blower
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- Location: Warragul
6v53 GM blower
Bit more done today, paint stripped and cleaned end plates and installed seal kit.
Supplied seal kit, didn't need half of it because of not going back onto a diesel.
Rear end plate installed and torquing rotor end float bolt.
Rear thrust plate installed
Front plate installed, note dead tooth on spline, their there so the gears match in their corresponding order
Gears installed first time
Rotor clearance checked
Gears removed for adding shim, you have to remove both gears at the same time because their helical if not spline and rotor damage is inevitable.
Gears back on tightened and clearance checked.
Coupler installed.
Dowls installed in front plate.
Drive installed, my bolts are a little long, bolt shop reopens monday.
Supplied seal kit, didn't need half of it because of not going back onto a diesel.
Rear end plate installed and torquing rotor end float bolt.
Rear thrust plate installed
Front plate installed, note dead tooth on spline, their there so the gears match in their corresponding order
Gears installed first time
Rotor clearance checked
Gears removed for adding shim, you have to remove both gears at the same time because their helical if not spline and rotor damage is inevitable.
Gears back on tightened and clearance checked.
Coupler installed.
Dowls installed in front plate.
Drive installed, my bolts are a little long, bolt shop reopens monday.
Last edited by neatride on Mon Apr 12, 2010 5:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
- Jeff Hitchins
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 3:24 pm
- Location: Perth WA
The person who is doing all the machining for the blower set up is a local rodder Phil Pavicich. I don’t have detail photos but will take some when I pull it down for paint and final assembly. I haven’t put it together yet because the truck is a long way off being finished and I was hoping to pick up a merc crank at the right price before I do the final assembly.
The inlet is a modified Luberg boat manifold that I picked up at a swap meet. Phil machined the top of the manifold flat then made a shaped adaptor to bolt the GM 453 blower to the Luberg inlet manifold. Phil made it so the adaptor bolts to the inlet manifold then the blower bolts to the adaptor. He also machined the inlet, inlet adaptor and blower to allow pressure oil feed from and return to the block and included a small BBS blow off plate at the front of the new inlet adaptor.
In terms of the blower snout I found a V6 commodore blower at a swap meet. Phil lopped the front of the commodore blower off and welded it to a plate that he made up which then allowed the modified snout to bolt to the blower. To link the internal snout and blower drive components he modified and pined one of the GM 453 blower drive cogs to allow the use of the standard commodore coupling system linking the snout to the blower.
Next he made up a single B belt drive pulley for the blower, alternator and the alternator brackets. (Note Phil wanted to use a double pulley but I opted for a single at this time - if the belt slips or the alternator pulley is too large to allow correct battery charging then we will have to go for double pulleys.
Other machining by Phil included a fined rear cover plate for the back of the blower and the stepped carby adaptor plate to allow the 2 x 94 carbies to bolt onto the blower.
In term of oiling I have a pic of Roland’s oiling setup which I will try to find and post up. On Roland’s and mine an oil feed has been taken from the pickup at the back of the block so the blower gets the same pressure as the rest of the motor. Inlet feed is small instrument pipe about the same size you would use for an oil pressure gauge. Outlet is about 10 mm and drip returns back into the valley cover.
Roland feeds his via the standard oil feed holes front and back. My pics of Rolands set up below. In case it is not clear the small pipes are the feed and the larger ones are the return. You don't want the feed pipes to be too big or there won't be enough oil pressure for the rest of your motor.
In my set up I decided to have Phil block off the standard feed with grub screws and to tap into the blower oil gallery front and back on both sides of the blower plates. That way each bearing/bush on each rotor gets its own oil supply - and that is why I stepped down the inlet pipe size.
The inlet is a modified Luberg boat manifold that I picked up at a swap meet. Phil machined the top of the manifold flat then made a shaped adaptor to bolt the GM 453 blower to the Luberg inlet manifold. Phil made it so the adaptor bolts to the inlet manifold then the blower bolts to the adaptor. He also machined the inlet, inlet adaptor and blower to allow pressure oil feed from and return to the block and included a small BBS blow off plate at the front of the new inlet adaptor.
In terms of the blower snout I found a V6 commodore blower at a swap meet. Phil lopped the front of the commodore blower off and welded it to a plate that he made up which then allowed the modified snout to bolt to the blower. To link the internal snout and blower drive components he modified and pined one of the GM 453 blower drive cogs to allow the use of the standard commodore coupling system linking the snout to the blower.
Next he made up a single B belt drive pulley for the blower, alternator and the alternator brackets. (Note Phil wanted to use a double pulley but I opted for a single at this time - if the belt slips or the alternator pulley is too large to allow correct battery charging then we will have to go for double pulleys.
Other machining by Phil included a fined rear cover plate for the back of the blower and the stepped carby adaptor plate to allow the 2 x 94 carbies to bolt onto the blower.
In term of oiling I have a pic of Roland’s oiling setup which I will try to find and post up. On Roland’s and mine an oil feed has been taken from the pickup at the back of the block so the blower gets the same pressure as the rest of the motor. Inlet feed is small instrument pipe about the same size you would use for an oil pressure gauge. Outlet is about 10 mm and drip returns back into the valley cover.
Roland feeds his via the standard oil feed holes front and back. My pics of Rolands set up below. In case it is not clear the small pipes are the feed and the larger ones are the return. You don't want the feed pipes to be too big or there won't be enough oil pressure for the rest of your motor.
In my set up I decided to have Phil block off the standard feed with grub screws and to tap into the blower oil gallery front and back on both sides of the blower plates. That way each bearing/bush on each rotor gets its own oil supply - and that is why I stepped down the inlet pipe size.
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- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:47 pm
- Location: Warragul
6v53 GM blower
Thanks for the pics and info Jeff, answers a few questions . Today I made the blowoff plate and some pegs for the oil gallaries . The idea of the pegs is to redirect where the oil come in, now from the side, was told this is how they do it when putting VW motors into areoplanes because of limited wall thickness . peg will end up sitting against the mounting plate and is an interferance fit. I didnt think there was enough room to tap it 1/8bsp and the hole has a 1/32 gallarie off it to lubricate the end float on each of the rotors. Still heaps more to go. Anyone got a 4 litre toyota hemi engine for sale?
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
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Supercharger mods
The three main mods you will have to do is , 1 Pin the rotors to the drive shafts using a rollpin about an inch in on each end . 2the rotors should be clearanced about ten thou for a street aplication . 3the bearings will have be replaced with double row deep groove high speed units .sealed ball bearings in the rear and rollers in the front if you cant get deep grooves to fit . you should also consider machining around the outside of each bearing area and pressing on a steel ring to stop cracking of the endplates .
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- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:47 pm
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6v53 GM blower
The old roadster has had a miss in the motor for a while so it was time to strip it down on the weekend and I couldnt help myself I had to see how it looked and to see if it would pass the line of sight test for the engineer.
Radiator filler and 32 bonnet brace bracket on radiator has to be moved and this new delima, the firewall, ok on the engine stand but forgot to allow for the engine being on an angle.
Was thinking of just making another lower base plate to manifold in alloy to move the blower forward 10mm OR.
Use some holesaws.
Throw it back in the mill on the Olds manifold.
Do all this for better atomisation and a plan B- put a 4bbl on in case I get stuck somewhere. For those who havnt figured it out yet the angle plate is so the blower will run paralell with the crankshaft.
6 carbs I like.
After I had some fun, I took it all off and put it back on the engine stand and finish making the base plate for the olds manifold.
4/71
Radiator filler and 32 bonnet brace bracket on radiator has to be moved and this new delima, the firewall, ok on the engine stand but forgot to allow for the engine being on an angle.
Was thinking of just making another lower base plate to manifold in alloy to move the blower forward 10mm OR.
Use some holesaws.
Throw it back in the mill on the Olds manifold.
Do all this for better atomisation and a plan B- put a 4bbl on in case I get stuck somewhere. For those who havnt figured it out yet the angle plate is so the blower will run paralell with the crankshaft.
6 carbs I like.
After I had some fun, I took it all off and put it back on the engine stand and finish making the base plate for the olds manifold.
4/71
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
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- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:47 pm
- Location: Warragul
6v53 GM blower
More done today, new crank pulley spacer made to realign belt.
6 carb manifold started
Half way done
still need to trim up edges
top pulley made
new crank pulley spacer installed and still have to do tensioner liocation once all sorted then i'll paint and polish.
6 carb manifold started
Half way done
still need to trim up edges
top pulley made
new crank pulley spacer installed and still have to do tensioner liocation once all sorted then i'll paint and polish.
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
- YNOTU2
- Old Hand
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- Gojeep
- Old Hand
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- Location: Muswellbrook NSW Australia
neatride
Just came across this thread whilst searching for info on 6v53 blowers.
How is your build going? I see it is a couple of months since last post!
How much boost are you looking at acheiving?
Did notice that the washers that retain the drive gears are back to front (the bolts should sit inside them not on top)!
Are the stock GMC rotor seals ok for one of these when thaey make boost. I was concerned so have installed double lip seals.
I have been working on one for a while now and have most of the parts built, should have the intercooler faced tomorrow and get to work on the drive shaft and snout bearing housing, then set up the belt tensioner and idler. Cam and lifters may return from the grinders by the end of the week.
Just came across this thread whilst searching for info on 6v53 blowers.
How is your build going? I see it is a couple of months since last post!
How much boost are you looking at acheiving?
Did notice that the washers that retain the drive gears are back to front (the bolts should sit inside them not on top)!
Are the stock GMC rotor seals ok for one of these when thaey make boost. I was concerned so have installed double lip seals.
I have been working on one for a while now and have most of the parts built, should have the intercooler faced tomorrow and get to work on the drive shaft and snout bearing housing, then set up the belt tensioner and idler. Cam and lifters may return from the grinders by the end of the week.
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- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:47 pm
- Location: Warragul
6v53 GM blower
Have done a little bit more, now past half way through the tensioner, am going with a cam grind from crow with a lca of 114 and around 410 thou lift, Blower is about to be stripped back down, something about it not being shiny has to do with it. Have been told standard seals should be ok with 6lbs boost max so i'll try it and see how I go. Feel free to post some pics and info of your build on this thread after all it is about 53 series blowers. Also not happy with a few cosmetic things when I built the car so while the engine is out there also being addressed and will post more pics soon, just have to finsh some small jobbing work for others to help pay for progress, cheers, Nick
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
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- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 11:46 am
- Location: Muswellbrook NSW Australia
Hope this has worked, never posted a picture this way before!
GM 6v53 blower.
[img][img]http://a.imageshack.us/img706/8749/p1060364x.th.jpg[/img]
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GM 6v53 blower.
[img][img]http://a.imageshack.us/img706/8749/p1060364x.th.jpg[/img]
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- trackdodge
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 1:12 pm
- Location: kilsyth vic
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- Posts: 406
- Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2008 9:47 pm
- Location: Warragul
6v53 GM blower
Looks to me like a boat motor, nice work. What type of belt are you using to drive the blower? cheers.
URL=http://img706.imageshack.us/i/p1060364x.jpg/]
URL=http://img706.imageshack.us/i/p1060364x.jpg/]
If you think you can you probably can, if you think you cant, dont bother, Henry Ford.
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- Joined: Mon Jun 21, 2010 11:46 am
- Location: Muswellbrook NSW Australia
Just been trying to get over the embarasment that, yes, with the drive on this side of the blower it will go BACKWARDS!!!!!!!! ! I must thank you trackdodge for noticing this as I would have spent more time on it before I would have noticed. Will keep this one for when/if the blower is mounted the other way.
I am going to use a 6rib multi "V" belt from a falcon or commodore (want parts to be locally available). I can not have blow off valves and this type of belt will slip. The pulleys have been machined up from filled double "A" series pulleys.
Cam and reground lifters arrived Friday, so now I can reassemble the engine. It has had the main and big end bearings replaced due to wear of the main thrust bearing surface. Fitted a centre main "strap" while the sump has been off and some sump mods to stop an oil leak.
Bates; settle mate this is a hotrod forum and "THEY" probably won't allow those other things !
A few engine specs;
Ford Flathead Canadian 59a
239ci bored to 258ci
1.6" manley pro flow inlet valves, 1.5"manley pro flow exhaust valves
Isky 88cam, isky springs, hollow adjustable lifters. Being replaced by Crow blower grind.
Edelbrock heads and super dual inlet, being replaced by blower.
Ross forged pistons with deck relief.
Full oil filtering system
2x2bbl Marvel Chebler 10-3300 carburetors
GMC 6V53 blower, looking at a target of 2 to 3psi boost
Intercooler, water cooled manifold and 1/4" phenolic resin manifold insulator.
I am going to use a 6rib multi "V" belt from a falcon or commodore (want parts to be locally available). I can not have blow off valves and this type of belt will slip. The pulleys have been machined up from filled double "A" series pulleys.
Cam and reground lifters arrived Friday, so now I can reassemble the engine. It has had the main and big end bearings replaced due to wear of the main thrust bearing surface. Fitted a centre main "strap" while the sump has been off and some sump mods to stop an oil leak.
Bates; settle mate this is a hotrod forum and "THEY" probably won't allow those other things !
A few engine specs;
Ford Flathead Canadian 59a
239ci bored to 258ci
1.6" manley pro flow inlet valves, 1.5"manley pro flow exhaust valves
Isky 88cam, isky springs, hollow adjustable lifters. Being replaced by Crow blower grind.
Edelbrock heads and super dual inlet, being replaced by blower.
Ross forged pistons with deck relief.
Full oil filtering system
2x2bbl Marvel Chebler 10-3300 carburetors
GMC 6V53 blower, looking at a target of 2 to 3psi boost
Intercooler, water cooled manifold and 1/4" phenolic resin manifold insulator.