thru the frame Brake fittings

Go here for info on chassis construction, body work and suspensions
User avatar
37chev
Senior Member
Posts: 1315
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2003 3:56 am
Location: Perth

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by 37chev »

Popey wrote:
Mick Kelly wrote:Great pic for demonstrating those through the frame fittings Alan. 8)

Mick.
But not the location or routing of the flex hoses!
the hoses have since had spring retainers fitted....this pic was taken way before the system was bled.

or is there a problem with the brake system that I havent found in its 3000km of travel?
www.armadaleautoparts.com
User avatar
slimfromnz
Senior Member
Posts: 1531
Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:07 pm
Location: Shell Cove NSW

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by slimfromnz »

lone*star wrote:
slimfromnz wrote: What brake line clamps have you used
Royden, I think they are Billet Specialties, same as in the model A RPU, they range from 3/16" through to 1/2" and come with a countersunk S/S machine screw...

Image
Cool thanks Stuart. One question, why do you have a residual pressure valve on the front system and an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear system?
Royden Hardcastle
1938 Chev Sedan LS3 power
1928 Dodge Senior Six BBBuick power
User avatar
Popey
Member
Posts: 542
Joined: Tue Jun 11, 2002 1:30 pm
Location: Newcastle. NSW

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by Popey »

:oops: Sorry; I didn't realize it was your car. I normally would not comment on somebodies car unless asked. I didn't put two and two together; thought it might have been a US catalogue picture. :oops:

Now I'm 'in it', so I might as well explain what caught my eye. It probably works OK, but the picture makes it look like the hose would bend and stretch on lock and over bumps while making tight turns. You probably have all that carefully optimised. However, in general the hose would be better routed closer to the king pin pivot and the front of the radius rod in most cases.
User avatar
redsx
Posts: 254
Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2004 11:51 pm
Location: Gordonvale qld

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by redsx »

So in the pic of the master cyl. is that a brake light switch in the banjo fitting going into the master cylinder as there is already a brake fail switch in the master. I Like the job of coiling the lines but is it really necessary in this situation. Also using an adjustable proportion valve wouldn't it have to be locked?
lone*star
Senior Member
Posts: 1145
Joined: Sun May 24, 2009 9:24 pm
Location: Mangerton, Australia
Contact:

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by lone*star »

slimfromnz wrote: Cool thanks Stuart. One question, why do you have a residual pressure valve on the front system and an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear system?
Royden, The master cylinder is under the floor, hence the 2 Lbs. residual pressure valves( I also have one in the rear line). In theory, gravity pulls the fluid back to the master cylinder and retracts the caliper/wheel cylinder pistons, which increases the pedal travel for the first application of the brakes.
The residual pressure valve is just a tool to balance brake bias, all of my builds incorporate one of these, the workshop truck has all new components, incl. factory proportioning valve, however, it would regularly lock the rear wheels untill I fitted an adjustable proportioning valve to trim the bias.

redsx wrote:So in the pic of the master cyl. is that a brake light switch in the banjo fitting going into the master cylinder as there is already a brake fail switch in the master. I Like the job of coiling the lines but is it really necessary in this situation. Also using an adjustable proportion valve wouldn't it have to be locked?
Correct, that is the brake light switch.

Coiling the lines reduces the ammount of flex transmitted to the flare where the flare nut secures it. Flex will fatigue the line right at the flare, and that is where they will snap through. Even though the master cyl. and the lines are clamped, there is some movement, just get someone to push the brake pedal hard in whatever you drive, and watch the firewall flex.

The prop. valve has a lock nut on the adjusting stem to avoid tampering :wink:
Stuart Smith
Sheetmetal Whisperer

It just works...

VIEW MY WEBSITE- http://www.lonestarbodyshop.com.au

It's easy to make simple look complex but it's difficult to make complex look simple
User avatar
slimfromnz
Senior Member
Posts: 1531
Joined: Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:07 pm
Location: Shell Cove NSW

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by slimfromnz »

lone*star wrote:
slimfromnz wrote: Cool thanks Stuart. One question, why do you have a residual pressure valve on the front system and an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear system?
Royden, The master cylinder is under the floor, hence the 2 Lbs. residual pressure valves( I also have one in the rear line). In theory, gravity pulls the fluid back to the master cylinder and retracts the caliper/wheel cylinder pistons, which increases the pedal travel for the first application of the brakes.
The residual pressure valve is just a tool to balance brake bias, all of my builds incorporate one of these, the workshop truck has all new components, incl. factory proportioning valve, however, it would regularly lock the rear wheels untill I fitted an adjustable proportioning valve to trim the bias.

redsx wrote:So in the pic of the master cyl. is that a brake light switch in the banjo fitting going into the master cylinder as there is already a brake fail switch in the master. I Like the job of coiling the lines but is it really necessary in this situation. Also using an adjustable proportion valve wouldn't it have to be locked?
Correct, that is the brake light switch.

Coiling the lines reduces the ammount of flex transmitted to the flare where the flare nut secures it. Flex will fatigue the line right at the flare, and that is where they will snap through. Even though the master cyl. and the lines are clamped, there is some movement, just get someone to push the brake pedal hard in whatever you drive, and watch the firewall flex.

The prop. valve has a lock nut on the adjusting stem to avoid tampering :wink:
Cool thanks again
Cheers
Royden Hardcastle
1938 Chev Sedan LS3 power
1928 Dodge Senior Six BBBuick power
User avatar
redsx
Posts: 254
Joined: Sat Jul 24, 2004 11:51 pm
Location: Gordonvale qld

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by redsx »

Stuart what is the brake light switch out of? much better install that way than using another distribution block in the system.
User avatar
37chev
Senior Member
Posts: 1315
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2003 3:56 am
Location: Perth

Re: thru the frame Brake fittings

Post by 37chev »

Popey wrote::oops: Sorry; I didn't realize it was your car. I normally would not comment on somebodies car unless asked. I didn't put two and two together; thought it might have been a US catalogue picture. :oops:

Now I'm 'in it', so I might as well explain what caught my eye. It probably works OK, but the picture makes it look like the hose would bend and stretch on lock and over bumps while making tight turns. You probably have all that carefully optimised. However, in general the hose would be better routed closer to the king pin pivot and the front of the radius rod in most cases.
no stress.....I have allowed plenty for turning and suspension travel.

I basically copied my set up from another car I saw...no point in re-inventing the wheel :wink:
www.armadaleautoparts.com
Post Reply