39Chev panel van

[woody28A]

hi hope you had a Christmas and have a good new year . have you thought of lifting the front of your engine ? if you have a angle finder the engine must sit between 3 - 5 degrees up at the front to give you the proper uni angles check it at the crank ? it looks like your engine can come up at the front about 50 - 60 mm ? . I check my motors where the carby fits that should be horizontal at ride height or close to it ! this might save you from cutting the sump . good luck

Ideally try for a maximum of 3 degrees (engine and gearbox down) and 3 degrees diff (pinion up).
This gives a tailshaft angle of 6 degrees “slope”, so each component is at 3 degrees to each other.
Sometimes this is bloody hard to achieve, especially if joy have a longish motor and gearbox combination.
Most tail shaft guys and pinion manufacturers recommend 1 to 3 degrees to make the uni’s “work”and keep the harmonics correct. Nothing worse than tailshaft vibrations caused by bad harmonics.
This won’t always give you correct carb angle, but a machined angle spacer will take care of that. Remember the only time that the carb will be level, will be on a level surface. Great for setting float level, but while driving the level changes all the time.
Have fun.

[pilot48]

I have the engine and rear end set parallel as the rear is jag and the rear is 80mill lower than the engine so I don't want to raise the engine any more The tailshaft is only about 1200 long so the uni joints should be ok The jag rear has to be level for the suspension to work. The engine a fuel injected ls1 so there isn't a craby the engine pully and diff flange are parallel

[jeffa]

Gerday Pilot.
Nice work so far - progressing well!

Do you have any pictures/details of the mounting of the rear end? Did you mount it on stock rubber mounts? (looks like you did). I'd be interest to see what you found.

Cheers.

Jeff

[pilot48]

You are wright Jeffa the rear end is mounted on the original rubber mounts

The trailing arms mount under the rails. The front end is also on the jag rubbers as well

[pilot48]

A bit more progress I have swapped the cowl over and started to replace the A pillars. I have formed the inner panels on both sides and the outer for the left just need to weld it all in now also trying to lose the ugly weld seam at the bottom of the A pillar to the firewall



Just going to tack it all together for now till I get all the body mounts sorted and doors gaped.

[Chrisso]

Really nice job there Charlie, really hitting your straps mate. Looks very cool.

[Gojeep]

A pillar is going to come up nice.

[pilot48]

G'day all still here just plugging away I need to recondition my door hinges they have bronze bushes that are flogged out and the pins are rust pitted and worn where is the best place to get replacement bits. Thanks
Charlie

[Chrisso]

What about this mob Charlie??

https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/dept/Door ... hings.html

[pilot48]

Thank Chrisso had already look at that mob but thought there may be some one in Australia. May have to go that way I need to count up what I need to make it worthwhile thanks
Charlie

[Chrisso]

This is a mob in Sydney I think a mate who does 50's chev pick-ups uses them sometimes Charlie

https://www.chevparts.com.au/chevrolet- ... up-to-1954