Calculating pedal ratio
- spark
- Senior Member
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- Location: East Gippsland
Calculating pedal ratio
Using this as a guide, the pedal length ( X) = 4.1 x Y,
so the length of the pedal is 4.1 times the length of the Y part (pivot point to pushrod)
Pedal length X = 24.6 cm pivot/pushrod Y = 6cm
so- 24.6 divided by 6 = 4.1
Have I got it right?
[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/ ... dalset.jpg[/img][/img]
so the length of the pedal is 4.1 times the length of the Y part (pivot point to pushrod)
Pedal length X = 24.6 cm pivot/pushrod Y = 6cm
so- 24.6 divided by 6 = 4.1
Have I got it right?
[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/ ... dalset.jpg[/img][/img]
Danger- man with a dry sense of Humor that lives near the sea.
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- chris spokes
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Hey spark.....I just went to post a reply and my comp froze Im gonna burn it.......anyway, Ive always looked at it this way, X is 4 times as long as Y........or cut X into 4 equal lengths and one of those lengths is the measurement for Y....4:1, 4 parts sand, 1 part cement ...Im a bit forest gump like at times ...Bert
Hillbillys from outer space...................
- spark
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- toprodz
- Old Hand
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Hey Spark I have been looking at your picture and I think that you are pretty close to what is needed. If I get a chance in the next couple of days I will measure some of the pedal sets I have got here and report back to you what I find
Yeah Bert stay on topic and stay away from those cake recipes that you mentioned
Yeah Bert stay on topic and stay away from those cake recipes that you mentioned
Regards
Peter Gough
FOUNDING MEMBER #24 OZ-E-RODDERS ROD & KUSTOM CLUB
Peter Gough
FOUNDING MEMBER #24 OZ-E-RODDERS ROD & KUSTOM CLUB
- spark
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I saw it once on bob the builder..... He should know..............Bertspark wrote:Gee Bert, if we’re talking concrete its 3-2-1 three gravel, two sand, one cement.
Mortar 6-1- six sand, one cement. (add a little lime)
Try and stay on topic will ya!
Thanks guys just checking my thinking.
you still going with the underdash setup spark? got any pics?......manual or auto?..........
Hillbillys from outer space...................
- spark
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Yes, auto – HiAce or make one. Spotted a under dash set up in ASR $440 + booster + master.Bertieboy wrote:[you still going with the underdash setup spark? got any pics?......manual or auto?..........
nzsimon sent me a pic of his set up-
[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/ ... ooster.jpg[/img]
All I need to do is to find someone with a lathe.
[/img]
[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/sparkm/crank.jpg[/img]
looki looki- http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products ... ystem.html
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products ... stem2.html
and - http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_c ... stems.html
(bottom of the page)
[/img]
Last edited by spark on Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Danger- man with a dry sense of Humor that lives near the sea.
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- spark
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- chris spokes
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I was looking at the using the same setup but I dont know if I will or not, you doing it for extra space? geeeez its pretty busy lookin........I think I will stick to underfloor.......lathe? no worries spark......its still lying on the floor not set up , but thats cool, just let me know what ya want and when, its old and crusty but will still turn up basic stuff...oh, and the lathe is too ...............cheers, Bert
Hillbillys from outer space...................
- spark
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The problem I have with under the floor set up is it will take up the space right were the muffler needs to be.
I had planed to run the exhaust from the headers to a muffler and have it exit in front of the rear wheel. Once the pipe is in position, I will cut a hole in the back of my side pipe and poke the working exhaust though so the fumes come out of the end of the side pipes.
I could run pipes and muffler lower but it would be highly visible. I was also toying with the idea of a belly pan. The back of the cab is channelled about 6inches- enough room to hide the muffler.
As usual one problem solved creates another, the heater will have to go way over on the passenger side. I spent last night mocking up a under the dash set up (made pedal, bell crank and a booster out of craft wood and 7 inch tin). It all fits up there; the pedal is in a good position.
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I had planed to run the exhaust from the headers to a muffler and have it exit in front of the rear wheel. Once the pipe is in position, I will cut a hole in the back of my side pipe and poke the working exhaust though so the fumes come out of the end of the side pipes.
I could run pipes and muffler lower but it would be highly visible. I was also toying with the idea of a belly pan. The back of the cab is channelled about 6inches- enough room to hide the muffler.
As usual one problem solved creates another, the heater will have to go way over on the passenger side. I spent last night mocking up a under the dash set up (made pedal, bell crank and a booster out of craft wood and 7 inch tin). It all fits up there; the pedal is in a good position.
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Danger- man with a dry sense of Humor that lives near the sea.
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- blown32
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One other thing to remeber is your gauges, A mate of mine started setting his under dash booster up in a 32, went and bought a set of gauges and then realised that the gauges were too deep and would hit the booster. just something to keep in mind.
At least I have learnt by his misfortune, and can try and get around it in a different way.
At least I have learnt by his misfortune, and can try and get around it in a different way.
Cheers
John.
[img]http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/blown32/beers1.gif[/img]
www.marshrodders.com
John.
[img]http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/blown32/beers1.gif[/img]
www.marshrodders.com