Calculating pedal ratio

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spark
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Calculating pedal ratio

Post by spark »

Using this as a guide, the pedal length ( X) = 4.1 x Y,

so the length of the pedal is 4.1 times the length of the Y part (pivot point to pushrod)

Pedal length X = 24.6 cm pivot/pushrod Y = 6cm

so- 24.6 divided by 6 = 4.1

Have I got it right?


[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/ ... dalset.jpg[/img][/img]
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spark
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Post by spark »

:(
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chris spokes
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Post by chris spokes »

8) hi spark ,the book hot rod fever 1 suggests a ratio of 6 to 1 to make it easier on your legs
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Post by Bertieboy »

Hey spark.....I just went to post a reply and my comp froze :evil: Im gonna burn it.......anyway, Ive always looked at it this way, X is 4 times as long as Y........or cut X into 4 equal lengths and one of those lengths is the measurement for Y....4:1, 4 parts sand, 1 part cement 8) ...Im a bit forest gump like at times :lol: ...Bert
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spark
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Post by spark »

Gee Bert, if we’re talking concrete its 3-2-1 three gravel, two sand, one cement.
Mortar 6-1- six sand, one cement. (add a little lime) :wink:

Try and stay on topic will ya! :D :D :D

Thanks guys just checking my thinking.

8)
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toprodz
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Post by toprodz »

Hey Spark I have been looking at your picture and I think that you are pretty close to what is needed. If I get a chance in the next couple of days I will measure some of the pedal sets I have got here and report back to you what I find :D

Yeah Bert stay on topic and stay away from those cake recipes that you mentioned :lol: :lol: :twisted: :twisted: :shock: :shock:
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spark
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Post by spark »

Thanks Peter, 8) I have also measured up a pedal set that I have, ( simular to the one on the right of the diagram), and it’s –

Y= 8 and X = 32.8 and you guessed it comes up 4.1 :wink:
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Bertieboy
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Post by Bertieboy »

spark wrote:Gee Bert, if we’re talking concrete its 3-2-1 three gravel, two sand, one cement.
Mortar 6-1- six sand, one cement. (add a little lime) :wink:

Try and stay on topic will ya! :D :D :D

Thanks guys just checking my thinking.

8)
I saw it once on bob the builder..... :lol: :lol: He should know..............Bert
you still going with the underdash setup spark? got any pics?......manual or auto?..........
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spark
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Post by spark »

Bertieboy wrote:[you still going with the underdash setup spark? got any pics?......manual or auto?..........
Yes, auto – HiAce or make one. Spotted a under dash set up in ASR $440 + booster + master. :shock:

8) nzsimon sent me a pic of his set up-


[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/ ... ooster.jpg[/img]

All I need to do is to find someone with a lathe. :roll: :roll: :roll:

:P [/img]

[img][img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/sparkm/crank.jpg[/img]

looki looki- http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products ... ystem.html

http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products ... stem2.html

and - http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_c ... stems.html
(bottom of the page)


8) [/img]
Last edited by spark on Wed Feb 15, 2006 3:00 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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32coupe
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Post by 32coupe »

Spark, have you tried Australian street rod components?

Mick Dudley 02 96065050 I know he makes one.
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spark
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Post by spark »

32coupe wrote:Spark, have you tried Australian street rod components?

Mick Dudley 02 96065050 I know he makes one.
no I haven’t …I will. thanks

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chris spokes
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Post by chris spokes »

8) holy shit spark i just remembered i pulled one of those setups out of a hino truck cab that was scraped at my brothers panel shop so it might be worth a look at a truck wreckers
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Post by Bertieboy »

I was looking at the using the same setup but I dont know if I will or not, you doing it for extra space? geeeez its pretty busy lookin........I think I will stick to underfloor.......lathe? no worries spark......its still lying on the floor not set up :roll: , but thats cool, just let me know what ya want and when, its old and crusty but will still turn up basic stuff...oh, and the lathe is too :lol: :lol: ...............cheers, Bert
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spark
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Post by spark »

The problem I have with under the floor set up is it will take up the space right were the muffler needs to be. :?

I had planed to run the exhaust from the headers to a muffler and have it exit in front of the rear wheel. Once the pipe is in position, I will cut a hole in the back of my side pipe and poke the working exhaust though so the fumes come out of the end of the side pipes.

I could run pipes and muffler lower but it would be highly visible. I was also toying with the idea of a belly pan. The back of the cab is channelled about 6inches- enough room to hide the muffler.

As usual one problem solved creates another, the heater will have to go way over on the passenger side. I spent last night mocking up a under the dash set up (made pedal, bell crank and a booster out of craft wood and 7 inch tin). It all fits up there; the pedal is in a good position.

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Post by blown32 »

One other thing to remeber is your gauges, A mate of mine started setting his under dash booster up in a 32, went and bought a set of gauges and then realised that the gauges were too deep and would hit the booster. :oops: :shock: just something to keep in mind. :)
At least I have learnt by his misfortune, and can try and get around it in a different way.
Cheers
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[img]http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww326/blown32/beers1.gif[/img]

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