Newbee's 52 Mainline Ute

[Gojeep]

A higher grade is not always better as less flex and can shear instead due to being more brittle.
Best to do whatever was there OEM.

This is an old wives tale with all due respect. Some years ago I was involved with a materials study with the engineers in the company I worked for to see if we should stock both grade 5 and grade 8 bolts for use on our heavy trucks. What we found was that a grade 5 bolt would bend, and shear before a grade 8 bolt would even bend. Also before the grade 8 bolt would shear, it would deform the hole it was in by about 30% before shearing in mild steel while a grade 5 bolt the hole would deform by less than 10% to the shear point. All this testing was done with 1/2 inch 13 thread bolts as this was the most common bolt size for us.

The second thing we found was that the correct bolt torque was very important to to ultimate strength. Under-torquing by 30% reduced the shear strength by half. Also having threads of the bolt in the shear zone reduced the bolt strength to less than that of the next size smaller bolt.

This supports what you are saying too.
http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/kil ... de-5-bolt/

[Newbee]

Time for an update, I've been working on the F/E and getting the chassis mounted in correct position for the swap.

Painted Lower Arm



Lower Arm with new Bush installed, they are difficult to re assemble onto the cross member, needs plenty of rubber grease.
The RHS lower shaft took some shifting, the bush was solid on the shaft, soaked it over night with eucalyptus oil
and it came loose with some solid hits with the big hammer and a brass drift - luckily



Cleaned up and undercoated.



Painted ready for re assembly.




Mounted to the table, ready for the big chop. Need to get measurements for the spindle centre.





I got a Chev pattern rim from the wreckers, I'll use that to get same height as Ford, think I have figured a simple way to do it.

Regards Newbee

[Newbee]

A few more jobs done, I had to work out a way to transfer the Ford hub centre height to the Jag F/E when I'm fitting it up on the table.

I removed the RHF brake drum so I could put on the Jag hub in its place. The wheel I grabbed from the scrappers that was the correct pattern (but 7/16" holes),
had to be machined out to fit over the Jag hub, I got my son to cut the centre out which he did on the big lathe at his work.

I left the inner Ford bearing on the stub axle, it fitted into the Jag inner cup ok but not fully, the outer Ford bearing fitted well into the cup but I couldn't get the nut on.
I tried one from a later EA disc I had laying around, the cone fitted well into the cup but it was loose on the stub axle, so would not centre correctly.

So I went to see my old mate at the local farm machinery dealer (this where I get all my bolts and is best place to get bearings, these guys know their stuff).
We worked out a bearing with the correct hole (3/4") so I could get the nut on and tighten the whole thing up and centre it. Turns out its a common Holden outer bearing.



Jag hub on and centred.



Wheel on and tightened.



Welded the spacer onto the wheel so it is a height gauge for the Jag set up coming soon.



I spoke to my engineer and showed him some photos that hotrod steve kindly sent me of the one he did on a '50 Convertible.
He was happy with the concept, I just need to send some more photos of the chassis where the crack is.
So soon to warm up the 9" angle grinder.



Regards Newbee

[FRANK BASILE]

Nice progress Newbee. You were lucky with the lower shaft ,make sure that when you re assemble it, give the shaft a coating of "anti seize" or "Copper coat"grease " [the spelling may not be correct] . Someone must have been lazy when they previously worked on that f/e. Many a cross member has been rendered useless. I had a S1 that had a frozen shafts, weeks of soaking and pounding failed to dislodge them, I was about to get a hole cutter onto the lower surface to allow oxy torch access to the shaft sleeves when I got offered a freeby S111 as a swap

[Newbee]

No turning back now, I've taken a few weeks of holidays from work, so I can get a solid bit of work done on the Ute and also help with organisation for the daughters 21 st.
(Wow boys are so much easier few beers at the footy club and all done, this turn out is 150 people and shit loads of work, must have learned from the wife she has a birth week not day. )

So all ready for the chop, a little more bracing and then into it.

Got the little plumb bob out to get the stub centre and mark it on the chassis table.



Last brace.







It will require a little more trimming and now I can make the frame to sit the Jag FE on and start lining it all up.



I also want to try the BTR trans in the tunnel to see if it will fit without modification of the floor or the cross member.

Regards Newbee

[jailbar joe]

getting serious now just hope it all goes to plan for you can't see why not

[Chrisso]

Get stuck in mate, great stuff.

[SimonG]

Making that first cut can be the hardest as you go over it so many times in your head but taking holidays and giving yourself time is definitely the best way. Great work.
Good luck with the party as you will probably need a holiday after the party

[Angry]

Watching with much interest,...Im looking at putting a Jag XJ6 front end under my Brothers Customline,.....

Are you going to take out the whole centre section n then weld back in 3x2 frame rails then mount the front end off that...

[Sly Fox]

Hi Newbee, No turning back now mate.

I hope you achieve what you have planned whilst your on your break.
Its the best way feel like your making progress.

I'm taking next week off to some jobs at home that I've been ignoring and then onto the car.
Enjoy the party.

[Newbee]

Thanks for the comments guys, a little bit of reassembly on the Jag FE and build a frame to position it is the next job.

Al, if you want to see how I intend to do the frame rails this is Hotrodsteve build on a ' 50 Single Spinner Convertible.
(He kindly also sent me the photos too, you will need to go right to the bottom of the page for the photos)
This chassis and the one in my Mainline are very similar as Ford used Convertible chassis in the Utes. If your brother's Customline is a sedan then the cross member won't be the same but it won't really effect things as you are cutting in front of that area anyway.


http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopi ... ve#p618583

Regards Newbee

[Angry]

Thanks for the comments guys, a little bit of reassembly on the Jag FE and build a frame to position it is the next job.

Al, if you want to see how I intend to do the frame rails this is Hotrodsteve build on a ' 50 Single Spinner Convertible.
(He kindly also sent me the photos too, you will need to go right to the bottom of the page for the photos)
This chassis and the one in my Mainline are very similar as Ford used Convertible chassis in the Utes. If your brother's Customline is a sedan then the cross member won't be the same but it won't really effect things as you are cutting in front of that area anyway.


http://www.ozrodders.com/forum/viewtopi ... ve#p618583

Regards Newbee

Thanks Newbee, yeah that looks like something I wanna do.....my brothers over mucking around with old Henry Front Ends, hes already got the Jag n been cruising around in i n loves it...

Thanks

[Newbee]

Best I put up an update otherwise I'll fill my little camera up.
Before I got all the FE in position I thought it would be a good idea to see how the trans would fit.
Looks to be good clearance around the front.



The rear is OK as well, it just missed the X member as it gets to the centre and misses the handbrake levers.
I will probably have to widen the centre boxed section for a little more clearance and put a removable bottom
plate so the trans can come out but I'll get a better look at that when the body is off.



When it got the FE all apart I found the stubs worn quite badly worn on the inner bearing surfaces, so got a couple of
replacements, pretty easy job to get them out with the son's 8 Ton puller.



Final cuts for the chassis rails, engineer wanted bevel cuts for extra weld lengths on top and bottom.

Left hand


Right hand


I got some 3mm plate to repair the captive nut area of the chassis for the front body mount, you can see the broken
top rails in the previous photos, folded it up to fit in tightly.



I will mark bolt holes and thicken it further before welding the nut underneath, I will also weld it on the inside and
plug weld from the outside once it is all fitted, this will be covered with a fish plate also when the inner and outer rails
are done so it should be better than original. I will run the top plate down under the body mount also as there is quite a gap.



Roughly in position, I'll try to make templates out of 1.6 mm and cut them out of the 150 x 5 mm plates I have for new rails.







Regards Newbee

[Angry]

Awsome ,...love the away your going about this....

Got my brother interested as hes looking at resurrecting his Cusso but wants a decent front end....

Keep goin,...love to see the progress....

Mines on the road now n I love the way it drives with the Jag fornt end....my mate in Tennessee has an Effy with a Jag front end,...n he told me it would be awsome to drive,,,,...
although id like a tad more castor as it wonders a little bit out on the road.& I.might tweek the toe in just a tad too...

[Chrisso]

Great progress Newbee looking good.