48 ford rear axle nut tension

[28rp]

Just rebuilt the brakes on my 48 sedan and was wondering if any one can help with torque measurement in ft/lbs for the rear axle nut that retains the brake drum on the axle.
I have three different early manuals and all show how to rebuild the diff or brakes in some detail, but not the actual settings.
I did read on the HAMB some one suggesting 200 ft/lbs for a Model A rear axle but that sound s a bit excessive to me-I know they have to be tight, but that tight?
Hope some one can help...

Cheers

Ash

[46 deluxe]

I've been through 2 ford books and i'm buggered if I can find a torque listed .
But that 200 ft/lbs does sound familiar .
I remember when I had my 47 coupe I had to buy a bigger torque wrench for the rear hub nuts .

[Shabby T]

200 ft/lbs sounds tight Scott, it is only about a 3/4 in thread isn't it, might even be smaller!

You can usually cross reference to a similar size thread that has a listed torque setting.

[46 deluxe]

Your probably right Terry , but it has to be tight or it will stuff the hub and axle .
Col would know how tight as he plays with them more than others would , where are ya Col ?

[46 deluxe]

I just found this one .

The 'V8 Times', Sept/Oct 98 Issue, pages 46 and 48, quotes several Ford Service Letters and later corrections. The final direction on tightening axle nuts reads: "tighten nut 356074-S to 200 to 220 foot pounds; then continue tightening to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds."

[28rp]

Scott-thanks for your efforts-wow, 220ft/lbs- I will have to find a piece of two inch pipe to put on the end of the torque wrench-I am only a skinny fella!!!
Thanks for searching that out for me.

Ash

[Mudgy]

I think that's what they call "FT" torque...


Cheers, Mudgy

[28rp]

Any tips on how to get a REALLY tight rear drum off-of course it is the last brake to rebuild and I want the car going for next w/end. I have a copy of the K.R Wilson puller with a specially machined nut to protect the thread and have been applying some serious horsepower to the spanners operating the puller. Have also warmed it around the key way area with no result. Will warm and quench work?
I don,t want to resort to butchery as this is 54000 mile car and I doubt the hub has ever been off. It did the mileage in 26 years being "barned" in 1974.
It only required fresh wheel cylinders-every thing else was spot on.

Cheers

Ash

[Shabby T]

Maybe a good sharp hit with a hammer on the outside of the taper part of the hub with a dolly on the opposite side, while also applying pressure with the puller.

[Shabby T]

I think that's what they call "FT" torque...


Cheers, Mudgy

That is FT!! alright!!

[28rp]

Shabby-thanks for the tip, but the puller I am using encloses the whole tapered part of the hub, so you can,t get a hit at it. Have tried heating and quenching, but she,s staying right where she is thanks!
Too bloody hot here today to be playing with the Oxy torch any way, was 32C at 9.30 am.
I will have another go tomorrow!

Cheers

Ash

[46 deluxe]

have you tried an impact gun on the puller ?

[28rp]

No, have nt tried that Scott as I don,t own one-My puller has a large nut on the end of a piece of threaded rod and another nut further down which does the pulling. Have a look at my post on the HAMB I put on a few days ago to see what I mean. Just do a search of my posts using the 28rp handle I use on here-its easier to post photos on the HAMB for me.....

[28rp]

The info is in the search content section on my profile under the lo buck hub puller title.

Cheers

Ash

[46 deluxe]

Tension it up and give the end of the puller bolt a good whack , it might jolt it loose ?