When removing the tail shaft from the pick up I noted minimal forward movement into the trans when disconnecting the rear uni joint, there was just enough to clear the yoke. Before lifting engine and trans I pulled my dummy trans yoke from a spare T350 and noted it was seated pretty much with the flange close to the ext housing seal. Fitting it to the trans in the pick up before removal it would only travel so far. Today I removed the ext housing and found some device acting as a restrictor behind the speedo drive. Anyone seen one of these?
Thanks Scott. I have not tried to remove it, but that rubber O ring is a bump stop. The tail shaft of course has been manufactured to suit. It does give me flexibility to move the engine back a tad if I do remove it. I will check for the hole in the yolk as well.
The yoke at a quick look down the guts is unvented. This trans I assume is the same vintage as the 350 engine from a 69 Chev. The trans has a small vent tube on top, similar spot to my other T350 that has a simple "Hat" type vent. This box is behind a 76 block and does not have the sleeve. One question. Was this seal arrangement for a fix that happens on some transmissions or was it generic? The box with the sleeve in the truck certainly leaked fluid whilst the vehicle is laid up. Leaking from the speedo drive, The extension housing seal showed no sign of leaking and that tub full of fluid was dumped when I removed the drive and the housing.
Can't see any reason for a bump stop ( if that's what it is) that bears up against a nylon drive gear and circlip. I've not seen such a thing since I started doing auto trans' in 1972...I would pitch it in the bin....and those speedo drive setups are a useless POS design,external leaks a plenty. What you can do is turn your ext. housing around 180 degrees and put the fucker at the top instead of below fluid level,also puts your cable to our drivers side too. Just so you don't think this is a frivolous suggestion , I have done it many times and there is no problem as a result of doing it.
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Col....
"Works" comes before "looks good", cos "looks good" changes, and "works" works!
Handy tip Col. I do not have to worry about a speedo cable. The vehicle is LHD and the current cable exits as such. I am using an electronic speedo, wires from a sender unit . Removing the bump stop also lets me allow the engine to move back slightly ,and lets me use more spline contact
It looks like a part of a special tool used to install tail housing bush/seal. You could use a different snap on shoulder depending if you were replacing seal or bush
Cheers,
Terry
That's going straight to the pool room!
[img]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/tan60/images.jpg[/img]
A (very) long shot, but is it a splined coupler used to mate up different splined output shafts to the short-shaft TH350 box? Some of these couplers were used to mate TH350s to weird 4WD transfer cases.
It could also be a splined coupler used to extend the output shaft. The TH350s came in either 6", 9" or 12" extensions. A coupler would let you to mate say a 6" box to a 12" extension.
Bit late I know, but looking at the link 46 Deluxe supplied, it looks to me that the yoke slides INTO that bump stop/coupler (well, seal housing would be more precise). This appears to me so that the area between the end of the output shaft and the yoke doesn't fill with fluid and get pumped out of the small vent as the vehicle goes over bumps. (See the write up in the link).
There is mention of centering the seal device on the splines so that the yoke doesn't hit it and stop rather than sliding into it.
This would be easy to check by sliding the yoke onto the output shaft without the extension housing in place.
When the truck was built/modified, maybe the builder wasn't aware of all this and set up the tailshaft length with the yoke in the wrong place.
Jeff
Yeah. I've changed my signature. The old one was out of date...
What if climate change IS a hoax, and we make a better world for nothing?
I should have finished this off. My yolk does not have a vent hole. I removed that sleeve as well, and took Col's tip regarding turning the ext housing. As part of the driveline fix necessitated by the original "builder" using a 4x4 F100 diff with high angle pinion, I was able to bring the eng/trans rearward to allow more spline engagement ,and re setting diff pads has allowed dropping the eng/trans down some 70mm. The diff looks much better now not pointing skyward.
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. Removing the bump stop also lets me allow the engine to move back slightly ,and lets me use more spline contact
