Advice on windows and Bailey channell needed

[monte]

I am building an aloy body as you all know but have never done windows before ,like real wind up windows ,so what manual window regulator do I use and the stuff the windows slide in is called a bailey Channel is that correct ,so which one of them do i use .I looked at a commodore regulator on ebay and maybe they might work ,any ideas please

[rog]

Depends on the size of window you are aiming at Monte, & what will suit your door shape. A friend used ford laser units in his 34 coupe, nice & compact, worked a treat. Bailey channel is pretty much “u” shaped rubber/felt that sits in a steel channel. If you get a chance, pull apart an old door at the wreckers, it will give you the general gist of what goes on. Later model doors are slightly different mainly in shape/action, & use power setups for the front.

[monte]

Depends on the size of window you are aiming at Monte, & what will suit your door shape. A friend used ford laser units in his 34 coupe, nice & compact, worked a treat. Bailey channel is pretty much “u” shaped rubber/felt that sits in a steel channel. If you get a chance, pull apart an old door at the wreckers, it will give you the general gist of what goes on. Later model doors are slightly different mainly in shape/action, & use power setups for the front.

Good advice Rog ,I will go out to the local wreckers and have a look at what makes it all work

[turns]

Hey Monte

I have posted before that I reckon doors are one of the hardest parts in a build to get right - particularly early stuff.

Flat glass is obviously easier than curved. Establish early on the suitable thickness of the gIass needed. I would cut a window template from mdf first (same thickness as intended glass) and then get the template operating in your glass channels first. From then I would start the search and fit the regulator. In early truck doors we used to fold up steel runners and fit them to the full perimeter (except the bottom) of the glass inside the door - the rubber bailey channel would fit in the steel channels. Sections of the steel channel often need to be removable to get the glass in and out. Curved channels are tricky to get right

The window install will present new problems to deal with such as door handles etc

I had a Mini once that had sliding door windows and have seen early cars use leather strap (like a belt) as a regulator ??? Just some other ideas.......

Cheers Turns

[turns]

I will add that I agree with Rog.

Go to a wrecker and fiddle with different window regulators to understand their operation. They are a complexly simple gadget

Good luck finding older cars in a wrecker

[monte]

Thanks turns ,I think I had a brain fart as I have a LC Torana under the house to look at ,will check it out and see how it all works

[rog]

Another good option is commercial vehicles, as the stayed very much the same over a good number of years. They upgraded internal items/plastics, but the windows generally remained the same.. & the glass is fairly flat from memory

[Twin Spinner]

I got bailey channel from rare spares a few years back, they only sold two sizes, two different OS diameters and they said inside glass diameter was the same on both. Other suppliers may have more of a choice though.

[37fordpu]

Clark rubber used to sell Bailey channel.They had several different sizes.I used 20mm steel box with one side cut out for the channel to fit in and it works quite well

[mercury mitch]

Also make sure you can get your glass in and out of the door

[Andyd]

I replaced the U shaped Bailey channel and the single sided strip type sometimes called "fuzzies" that goes on either side of the door edge where the window comes out.....fuzzies were generally replaced by rubber sealing strips in the 50/60's ..this was for my 1940 Dodge 4 dr Sedan last year.....I bought it from Old Auto Rubber in St Marys, Sydney they had a good selection of sizes available and did mail order, I was able to get it cut to just under 2 metres which was a deliverable size......using MDF board to make the glass samples is a good idea.............also depending on what sort of internal winder mechanism you chose can limit your choice of winders.......up to the 1950's US cars tended to use a 3/8th square shaft for the winder and a number of repo handles are available to suit especially for Frod & Chef, GM cars started to use the same spline that Oz Holdens used from the late 50's thru to the 70's and most again are available as repos.........not sure whether Japanese brands used any really stylish handles and were mostly black plastic recessed things.........andyd

[FRANK BASILE]

Try this if it helps Monte. Bailey channel is in their catalogue. Different dimensions etc. http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au.

[Twin Spinner]

Mine were not a good snug fit so I put a few dabs of sika flex on the back and they are still good.

[jailbar joe]

monte the minimum size you should aim at for the glass is 4 mm and when you make your template out of mdf make the bottom edge of the glass a bit longer
so that it sits further down in the channel ,this makes it more stable when going up and down.....

depending on the thickness of the doors you make,you might have to do what i did to get the handle/latch to work....
i dropped a a cable down from the d/handle to a roller at the bottom of door and then back up to the door/latch thus the window goes down inside the V of the cable...

no sign of a problem as yet and believe me,my missus gives her side a hiding

[choco]

If you run straight glass, it's way easier to use a universal Hot Rod electric window kit than dick around with cranking mechanisms. I usually just get them from Timic.