302V8 into a 1935 Ford

[FRANK BASILE]

Is galvanised another word for rust Frank?

Tassie Dave

Not exactly Dave, more like some form of oxidisation of the alloy distributor base "gluing" to the iron block. I had to cut the distributor down and brill and chisel. This was after simply being patient with a week of soaking and heat applied.

[tub1935]

mate your car do what you want ,however chevy the way to go , ive got one in my 35 bolted to original trans on original front mounts clears every thing and the range of exhaust manifolds is amazing and can be fitted to both sides of engine to clear anything that gets in the way

[RockinKees]

mate your car do what you want ,however chevy the way to go , ive got one in my 35 bolted to original trans on original front mounts clears every thing and the range of exhaust manifolds is amazing and can be fitted to both sides of engine to clear anything that gets in the way

You are absolutly right!
It was a tight fit, that means, that it’s so tight, you can’t do it without cutting the firewall, if you want the radiator in front of the engine.

So now we were on the hunt for a sbc 350.
I understand this is doable without cutting anything?
Also cheaper in parts and readily available overhere!
There goes the Ford in a Ford
On to the next chapter......

[FRANK BASILE]

Yes Greetz. Speaking purely of fitting, the SBC goes in real easy.. Simplest is to use a "horseshoe" shaped flat plate arrangement across the block face clearing the timing case. Bolts to block face on both sides with 2 bolts . Extended tabs let you use the original SV Ford donuts, or Jaguar items. From my memory the only surgery faced was the fuel pump fouling the front cross member. I simply went electric pump.

[steve the ford guy]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153879008377
Hurst made the block mounted SBC front engine mountings, here's one from eBay, you may find a cheaper one if you search eBay, there's also plans to make them online. Frame brackets can also be found online, this "Ford in a Ford" narrative is so petty, it's your car so do it your way. Years ago a rear engined sports car was built called the "Pantera" this had a Cleveland engine and access to the distributor was only possible after removing the back seat, I think a rear mount distributor would have been more practical regards maintenance just as featured in the earlier Y block engines by Ford.

[FRANK BASILE]

Good picture Steve to illustrate my description. Early 70,s US Hot Rod magazine had the pattern and dimensions for home brew fabrication. I made up a cardboard pattern initially . I agree with your comment re the "Ford in Ford" pettiness. It gets down really to what the individual chooses. Some may opt for ease of fitment as a factor, others what they like as a marque, and others what is available for their budget. Good practical response here based on experience of doing similar fitments helps someone make up their own mind as to which path to choose.

[choco]

Yes, you have to chop up the firewall to make a SBF fit.

coupe-sm1.jpg

When you do get it to fit, it's a lot of fun and it's a Ford in a Ford, but if you do this

drags2.jpg

....you get this.....

donk1.jpg

They break easy.....

donk3.jpg

....again.....

donk6.jpg

....and again....

donk7.jpg

Put a Hemi in it!

[monte]

Dick didnt seem to have any problem getting a few revs out of the old cleveland and went for 1000 kms like that , pity he went bush

[choco]

The weak point in Windsors is the rod bolts. Even with 3/8 rod bolts they fly apart at >6,000 rpm. Trust me, I blew up three of the bastards in the 20 years I drove that 36 coupe. The 5L in the Vicki will last forever because the Mrs drives it like a golf cart.

[Greg N Smith]

Choco - I can see the problem - With that Chev orange paint the poor engine thought it was a Chev !

[monte]

The weak point in Windsors is the rod bolts. Even with 3/8 rod bolts they fly apart at >6,000 rpm. Trust me, I blew up three of the bastards in the 20 years I drove that 36 coupe. The 5L in the Vicki will last forever because the Mrs drives it like a golf cart.

Should have changed to a Clevo mate ,love the old things never had much to do with the Windsors

[Thomobro]

If you need a ford in a ford. Look at a Y block
Duno wants all the commotion, A motors a motor they all have their problems and benefits.
Whatever you have available and whatever fits. Its hotroding not restored cars. Happy motoring and enjoy your hobbie

[FRANK BASILE]

If you need a ford in a ford. Look at a Y block
Duno wants all the commotion, A motors a motor they all have their problems and benefits.
Whatever you have available and whatever fits. Its hotroding not restored cars. Happy motoring and enjoy your hobbie

.

I agree fully with the last expressed sentiment. However Y blocks as widely used as they were, being pretty much the only available, plentiful and cost effective OHV V8 rodders could get their hands on up until the very early 70,s ,by today's standards they are very weighty [625 lbs in the old measurement] . And the deepest part of the oil pan was in the front causing a PITA when front ends started to be replaced as well . I remember all too well even with an old beam axle front end in a 32 Roadster ,front spring reversed eyed, spring sag had the sump riding on the steering tie rod.

[jailbar joe]

your right frank ...but with the crank riding so high in the block it was surprising how much you can slice out of the pan

[FRANK BASILE]

your right frank ...but with the crank riding so high in the block it was surprising how much you can slice out of the pan

I ended up giving the pan a shaped recess with some steel bar and a hammer for good measure Joe. I forgot about your point with the crank. My last Y block dabbling and rebuilding was 50 years ago . I did have one[239] in an imported 54 Crestline a few years back ,but aside to plugs, leads and a tune up I just looked at it with sentiment .