Radiator Options

[Newbee]

My donor NC Fairlane has the plastic header tank (which is as ugly as sin) and no cap on the radiator,
I would prefer one of similar size (for electric fans), cross flow with the cap on it, XB-XE seem to fit the
bill but the mountings are probably hard to come by. To suit a 5L W with air conditioning.

Has anyone used something similar, preferably with the mountings so it can be attached to the radiator panel ?

Have you also purchased aluminium ones from eBay, any particular supplier that are good ?

Regards Newbee

[Chrisso]

My donor NC Fairlane has the plastic header tank (which is as ugly as sin) and no cap on the radiator,
I would prefer one of similar size (for electric fans), cross flow with the cap on it, XB-XE seem to fit the
bill but the mountings are probably hard to come by. To suit a 5L W with air conditioning.

Has anyone used something similar, preferably with the mountings so it can be attached to the radiator panel ?

Have you also purchased aluminium ones from eBay, any particular supplier that are good ?

Regards Newbee

Hi Newbee, try this guy he has great radiators.

https://www.ebay.com.au/str/ROADSTAR-AU ... 7675.l2563

[46 deluxe]

Do you still have the mainline rad ? if so look into getting it re cored .
When I did Pilot Dave's cusso we had the orig radiator re cored , that car never got hot with the Windsor in it .
And I must say Dave has a heavy foot …

[pilot Dave]

Do you still have the mainline rad ? if so look into getting it re cored .
When I did Pilot Dave's cusso we had the orig radiator re cored , that car never got hot with the Windsor in it .
And I must say Dave has a heavy foot …

hey I heard that Scott
I actually had to put a higher temp t/stat in the old girl to get temp up a bit
\ the big $$$$ one in my pilot was never real good and when the sides pulled apart I got an alum one from guy in Sydney for a 1/3 of what they wanted to repair the copper/one and I had to also put higher t/stat in it

[46 deluxe]

It's always been my preference to use brass/copper radiators , expensive yes , but they just seem to last forever .
And they are repairable if need be , not like the throw away alloy ones .

[FRANK BASILE]

Bloody crimped plastic tanks as well. Our 49 pickup came in with a Chev 350 and a nice welded all aluminium tank. I remember somewhere reading that alloy tanks are supposed to be insulated from the metal frame?. Modern vehicles do this via plastic tanks. I note one bit of stupidity, anyone with Crummydores must be familiar with cracked plastic tanks. The thermo fan shroud is bolted to bosses on the plastic tanks themselves, vibration does the rest at the boss base /tank area.

[46 deluxe]

And the alloy ones are toss away Frank , rad mobs will not repair them .

[Oldcol]

And the alloy ones are toss away Frank , rad mobs will not repair them .

...can't,they are rubbish and also open you up to massive problems with Electrolysis. Spend the money on good parts once.....or pay the price on regular replacements and failures.

[FRANK BASILE]

The electrolysis can be controlled. It appears that coolant in good nick is one part, the next is not allowing the radiator itself to be an electrical conductor to earth if the engine block is not earthed properly. [makes sense now for the isolation mounting]. Most folks at home with a decent soldering iron or propane torch can at least deal with the fast disappearing copper/brass units for routine leaks[ Have done this many a time over the years].

[turns]

My donor NC Fairlane has the plastic header tank (which is as ugly as sin) and no cap on the radiator,
I would prefer one of similar size (for electric fans), cross flow with the cap on it, XB-XE seem to fit the
bill but the mountings are probably hard to come by. To suit a 5L W with air conditioning.

Has anyone used something similar, preferably with the mountings so it can be attached to the radiator panel ?

Have you also purchased aluminium ones from eBay, any particular supplier that are good ?

Regards Newbee

I always thought that radiators need to be insulated from the body and usually mounted on a design utilising rubber. Old Mazdas had rubber cotton reel type bolts and WB Holden radiators had pins on the bottom that slotted through big rubber grommets - the sides had rubber blocks that slid into a receiver. I thought manufacturers mounted radiators this way for electrolysis and vibration etc. I suggest that you try and use or replicate what the factories have designed.

I think EF Ford thermo fans were good. Twin and reliable.

I have always used brass/copper radiators but have had some crappy ones over the recent years. The last good one I remember buying was for a Holden Brougham with LPG and it lasted until I sold the car ($650 odd over 20 years ago).

I just bought an alloy radiator for my last build - I will let you know how it goes after some time. I can't recall the price but can't believe they can make them for the money. I have a budget I have to adhere to

My family grocery getter was a Commodore from 2005 to 2018. It had the dreaded plastic tank radiator that I replaced once for $165. I wouldn't reach for plastic as a substance to make a radiator tank from but I can't argue with the longevity vs price for the km it delivered

God luck

Cheers Turns

[FRANK BASILE]

Yes turns. The rubber mounting is intended to prevent the radiator being a path for stray current to ground via the cooling system. I am still trying to figure out how this is possible if the engine block is grounded properly. Degraded coolant or plain water adds to the problem. The aluminium radiator in our 49 Pickup is frame bolted. It appears not to be too old ,I will do some poking around with voltage/ current checks via the coolant when all is back together again running. Could try with our Commodore given it is insulated from the vehicle body to see if anything does exist to warrant real concern with the other set up. Simple to use the alloy core.

[Newbee]

Thanks for the info guys, Scott I still have the original radiator, did you have extra rows added in the new core ?

By the way Dave I believe I saw your Cusso for sale again on FB.

Regards Newbee

[46 deluxe]

No , just had new core fitted due to damage .
Can you post a facebook link for the cusso on facebook ?

[hotrodsteve]

Hi Newbee after several failures with ally radiators I have gone back to good old copper brass radiators . No dramas and can be repaired. With the new core technology nowadays I would get your original recorded as Scott said. Use a good fan and you will be fine .

[pilot Dave]

Hi Newbee after several failures with ally radiators I have gone back to good old copper brass radiators . No dramas and can be repaired. With the new core technology nowadays I would get your original recorded as Scott said. Use a good fan and you will be fine .

im going against the grain here my pilot has a copper /brass one in it and it fell apart after 3 yrs cost $1300 from Melbourne ADC I bought a alum one from roadstar for around $250 its been excellent for over 3yrs now I figured if its lasted this long and only lasted 4 yrs im better off than paying 1300 for the same amount of time it also cools the chev excellent

his seem to be better quality than other alum ones I have seen