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Drewfus wrote:Note: here's a shot from mid 50's (guess the driver ) back when racing suits and arm restraints were optional...

Not Veda Orr, is it?

Brootal wrote: Not Veda Orr, is it?

That it is....the first 'official' woman to compete in the SCTA (1938), amongst many other achievements.

Cheers,

Drewfus

Just checking.
What dimensions of round pipe is used at the front of the chassis please?

jdaley wrote:Just checking.
What dimensions of round pipe is used at the front of the chassis please?

I'm assuming you're reffering to the front crossmember tube that mounts the front spring perch to? from memory we used something around the 65 o.d. with an 3mm wall thickness, although anywhere between 50-70mm with a 3 mm wall thickness would be rather effective and 'overly generous'

Cheers,

Drewfus

Overall chassis width, what do you have in place please?

jdaley wrote:Overall chassis width, what do you have in place please?

Pick your favourite, however, we found it effective to be approximately 700 wide from outside of rail to outside of rail, this allows sufficient width for the driver/cage, as well as the engine to fit in with just enough room to convieniently squeeze in the startermotor, clutch throw-out arm.

If you aim to have around the 105-115" wheelbase, you'll be set

Cheers,

Drewfus

Just getting ready to mount the slant 6 engine.
I have looked for photos of the front engine mounts, are thereany?
If not is there a preferred system of engine mounting please?

jdaley wrote:Just getting ready to mount the slant 6 engine.
I have looked for photos of the front engine mounts, are thereany?
If not is there a preferred system of engine mounting please?

You can either rubber mount or rigid mount it, many preffer rigid, although my prefference is some simple rubber isolators (similar to what's used under flathead front mounts, or an 'isolator' sourced from companies such as Blackwoods)

here's my example



two front mounts, and one back at the transmission housing

Note: on all 'inlines' a 25x3 plate strap is to go from chassis rail to chassis rail underneath the rear of the engine, should there a be a circumstance that the casting at the bellhousing craks/breaks, with the strap there as a secondary support to catch the engine from falling to the tarmac.

like this



note: above photo has my lower fabricated scattershield removed for maintainence reasons

Cheers,

Drewfus

Thanks, when was the bit about the 25 x 3 strap introduced? Its an interesting requirement.

its always been there as part of the ANDRA rule book, remembering that the HA/GR cars 'fit' inside an existing class, hence 'our' rules are only an addition to the existing platform of rules.

What sort of castor do I set thing front up on.
I hope to use as much second hand stuff as I can in thsi machine just for the sake of it. I have found an old tow bar with a tounge that looks perfect for the front x member and bracket for the spring set up.

What angle do I weld things to set teh castor in degrees or in offset X mm per 1M?
Thanks

jdaley wrote:What sort of castor do I set thing front up on.
I hope to use as much second hand stuff as I can in thsi machine just for the sake of it. I have found an old tow bar with a tounge that looks perfect for the front x member and bracket for the spring set up.

What angle do I weld things to set teh castor in degrees or in offset X mm per 1M?
Thanks

Setting up the front end - Think of it like you’re building a T bucket, when setting up the beam axle lay about 7 or 8 degree’s, and since you’re not worried about turning corners, take it to 10 degree’s if you wish.

As far as using what you have…….my only comment is that we encourage people to be resourceful, and make sure that whatever you build is ‘fit for purpose’. I expect that the front crossmember will be supporting 220-300 kg at speed, so, if you believe it’s capable of that, and not something of ‘questionable merit’ (ie past it’s used by date/damaged/rusty junk) then go for it, just remember that you're the one riding in this vehicle at speed.

Sample




as opposed to doing the front crossmember like a common 'T bucket style' mount, you can treat it with the same methodology as a standard ford crossmember, basically a piece of channel from one chassis rail to the other, this way you don't have the positioning of the spring wanting to add a torsional element to the crossmember, which means the crossmember doesn't have to be as heavy or rigid.



Cheers,

Drewfus

Is it possible to bend the roll cage loops with the chinese pipe benders.
Will Chrome moly bbend with that system also or is it best to get them bent at a commercial operation?
Thanks

I see it stated that up to a 300kg load is on the front end.
I have a pair of trailer two leaf springs that dont move much with my weight 80kg on them. Would they be ok?
What is being used I have seen a vast range.
thanks

jdaley wrote:Is it possible to bend the roll cage loops with the chinese pipe benders.
Will Chrome moly bbend with that system also or is it best to get them bent at a commercial operation?
Thanks

Stay away from the cheap pipe benders, their dies are junk, and whilst I've had success when I replaced the junk dies with 'Dawn' units on medium wall steel tube, when it comes to a roll cage, either take it to a specialist who can bend the tubes to your required profile, or do like we did, and bought one of these,

http://www.speedwerx.com.au/products-de ... =1&Level=1

it has probably done at least 14 cages, and effectively paid for itself many times over, with great result.

Note: I'd 'invest' in the air/hydraulic unit, as you will soon 'appreciate' the investment after the first few bends, good excersise....

Front spring - trailer springs are great for this instance, especially given the limited 'work' they do on these kinds of cars. They come in varying widths, budget friendly, and easily replaced/maintained.

Cheers,

Drewfus